To be honest, I fear I may not be objectively able to review Stuart’s collection because my disappointment in her return to the frilly, girly Stuart of yore is clouding my judgment. While nearly everything was wearable, beautiful and fully welcome in my closet (I’ll make room, somehow) the presentation fell flat. White, champagne, beige and ruffles featured heavily, with 50s silhouettes and sequin details. The trends of the season were present: splatter paint fabric, trapeze dresses, crimped ruffles. And, as always, Stuart made them extraordinary. The pants in particular, perfectly tailored silk cigarette pants were everything a slim pant should be. And linen dresses with cream leather details and belts with demure buckles were ladylike chic. But something was missing.
Stuart opened the show with a series of designs incorporating white silk with black silhouettes of people dancing. It was beautiful, dramatic fabric that, contrasted with prim ruffled jabot collars and slim dresses with patent leather belts, created a delightful dichotomy that was two parts sweet and one part sassy.
